Spring! Time for you and Fido to resume your romping in the great outdoors – that is, until the Bay Area reminds you that weather doesn’t always read the calendar.
When the rain and fog won’t stop, and you’ve finally had enough of muddy paws and that wet dog smell, there’s relief just one long day’s drive away. Grab the leashes, treats, and that portable water bowl and head down to everyone’s favorite desert playground, Palm Springs.
“In Palm Springs, your four-legged friends are considered an important part of our community,” Mary Jo Ginther, Director of the Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism, tells Bay Woof. “We’re proud to offer a host of first-rate amenities for our pet-loving residents and visitors, including a variety of pet-friendly shops, restaurants, and over 50 lodging establishments. You’ll enjoy the much loved Palm Springs Dog Park behind City Hall, and we’ll soon open a new no-kill state-of-the-art ‘sustainable’ animal shelter.”
My husband Dave, our old hound dog mutt Magnolia, and I moved to “The Springs” last fall and found a pet-friendly paradise indeed. Actually, this was no accident. When we started planning our semi-retirement, “a good place for dogs” was high on our list of criteria.
Our first exploratory foray to this renowned desert destination let us know we might be onto that good thing. We spotted bowls of fresh water outside many of the town’s lively boutiques and eateries. Non-service dogs trotted through the aisles of non-pet stores. And everywhere – everywhere! – smiling visitors and residents alike were walking their smiling dogs.
When we returned for a second look, with Magnolia this time, it was a cinch to find hotels that welcomed her. Check the sidebar on page 12 – from swanky resorts to retro and specialty inns to your basic motels, you and your favorite canines have choices galore.
Afraid you’re too young to appreciate The Springs? During the past decade or so, “heaven’s waiting room” has been re-inventing itself. Yes, it’s still popular with snow-haired snowbirds, but hipsters of all ages and persuasions are re-discovering the city and its striking mid-century modern architecture. As an art-hound myself, I’m delighted by the gallery, film, and theater scene in a community that tops out at 50,000 “in season.” And there’s something about sunshine and relaxation that never goes out of style.
One great place to see it all come together for canines and humans of every stripe is the weekly Village Fest. Every Thursday evening year-round, the city closes Palm Canyon Drive through the heart of the popular commercial and tourist district known as “The Village.” The strip morphs into a giant street fair jammed with crowds meandering between food stands, street performers, and booths featuring locally produced merchandise, including pup-themed arts and crafts. We like to stop by the Guide Dogs of the Desert booth to pet their gorgeous Goldens. Many people seem to come simply to show off their dogs.
One recent Thursday, Village Fest looked like a hirsute version of Project Runway. Paris the Chihuahua and Ewok the Cairn-Pomeranian mix were in town from San Diego to model the Cool Dawgs line of specially-fitted sunglasses. I spoke with June and Eric, visiting from nearby Yucaipa with their show-stopping Australian shepherds, Tai Chi and Daisy, and their rescue Gidget, a long-haired Chihuahua whose matching markings make her look like the Aussies’ Mini Me. Gidget and the gang are Village Fest regulars, and June raves about the “rock star” welcomes they receive. But in a town where little dogs are by far the norm, the biggest buzz of the night went to the longest legs. Great Danes Layla and Leo strutted the asphalt carpet with people pals Matt and Beth, who graciously toted the Danes’ de rigueur accessories, a pair of – you guessed it – adorable Chihuahuas.
Yes, Palm Springs has fun with its furry friends, but it also takes them very seriously. Later this year, the city will open its exciting new animal shelter. Designed by Emeryville’s Swatt | Miers Architects using the climate-smart principles of desert modernism, the new facility represents a unique partnership between the city and the non-profit Friends of the Palm Springs Animal Shelter. Local voters and city officials provided bond funding and land, and to date the Friends have raised more than half-a-million dollars in contributions.
The new facility incorporates many of the latest innovations in shelter management and includes some brand-new ones in keeping with the city’s commitment to sustainability. Kennels, which can be individually climate-controlled, will be cleaned with reclaimed wastewater, and the shelter is set up to go solar when more funds have been raised. Still, as Friends Board Vice President Stephen Boyd tells Bay Woof, the key design directive throughout the facility is “the health of the animals.”
When you and your canine kids have had enough urban cool, wild areas are accessible and abundant. Although some preserves keep dogs off hiking trails, there are plenty of dog-friendly trail options, as well. We can walk Magnolia out the front door of our condo and 10 minutes later arrive on paw at the Santa Rosa Mountains National Monument, where the problem quickly becomes, “Which trail do we take her on today?”
Despite my effusions, there are some important caveats about traveling to Palm Springs with your pooches. Respect desert temperatures! Visitors take note: The city enforces its absolute ban on pets in unattended vehicles any time of the day or night. And always keep fresh water handy – dehydration sneaks up fast.
I do have a pet peeve. If you’re an animal-lover who is also a vegetarian, lower your Northern Californian expectations. Sadly, with some exceptions, Palm Springs is still stuck in meaty mode. We love one of the exceptions, all-vegan Native Foods Café, where Magnolia is welcome to join us for patio dining in the breezeway.
So when is the best time to visit The Springs? Now! The temps are ideal for you and your dog, and the desert wildflowers are ready for sniffing.
One last thing we love about Palm Springs: The hot, dry climate is good for old bones, whether human or canine. When we rescued Magnolia, she was a dejected 12-year-old with hind legs so stiff she couldn’t even scratch her floppy ears. After a few months in the therapeutic desert, magnificent Magnolia is not only scratching like a proper hound dog, she’s bounding – well, sometimes – like a pup.
Pooch-friendly Palm Springs: Accommodations
Pet-friendly polices can change, so always phone ahead.
Palm Springs offers lodging for every dog’s budget and taste. Many additional properties can be found at www.bringfido.com/lodging/city/palm_springs_ca_us/ and other dog-friendly websites, but here are some local favorites.
LUXURY
Viceroy Palm Springs
Pamper yourself and your pooch at this classic luxury resort in the convenient and popular Historic Tennis Club District at the base of Mt. San Jacinto, just a few blocks west of The Village. The Viceroy offers dog walking/sitting services, an amenities package, and a Pooch Menu many humans would envy.
Restrictions: 40 -pound limit
Fee: $100 per dog per stay
www.viceroypalmsprings.com; 760-320-4117
BOUTIQUE
Andalusian Court Inn
We love this beautiful, private Spanish Revival inn – one of several dog-friendly boutique choices in the historic neighborhood near the Tennis Club – and not just because our last dog was named Andalou. Lucy and Desi Arnaz lived here! The eight villas were once apartments and they all feature full kitchens.
Restrictions: Well-behaved dogs okay with signed waiver; no size limit
Fee: None
www.theandalusiancourt.com; 760-323-9980
RETRO
Del Marcos Hotel
You can re-live the Mid-Century Modern lifestyle at many Palm Springs properties. The Del Marcos, designed in 1947 by famed desert architect Bill Cody, has been restored to bring back that swingin’ feel. Dogs are greeted with an amenities package and, as with all lodging establishments between The Village and the mountains, hiking trails are near at paw.
Restrictions: Small dogs only
Fee: $25 per dog per stay
www.delmarcoshotel.com; 800-676-1214
ROCKIN’
Ace Hotel & Swim Club
If you and Spot are looking for action, join the L.A. crowd at the full-service Ace Hotel. The diner features organic, sustainable, and modern vegetarian options (hooray!), and there’s entertainment most nights at the Amigo Room. Spot will love the Ace’s on-site off-leash dog park. If your timing is right, you may luck into one of the Ace’s “Arf Walk” pet-friendly fairs.
Restrictions: No size limit; request a garden patio room
Fee: $25 per night for first dog; additional dogs $10 per night
www.acehotel.com/palmsprings; 760-325-9900
BUDGET
A number of budget motels are clustered at the bend where South Palm Canyon Drive curves east to become East Palm Canyon, and most of these motels, including the “newly renovated and affordably hip” Travelodge, accept dogs.
Travelodge
Restrictions: 35-pound and 2-pet limit
Fee: $25 per dog per night
www.palmcanyonhotel.com; 877-544-4446
Best Western Inn at Palm Springs
Restrictions: 80-pound and 2-pet limit
Fee: $20 per dog per night
www.bestwestern.com; 760-325-9177
DINING
Al fresco dining is popular in this warm-weather resort town, and many restaurant patios welcome your pooch. Don’t see a water dish? Just ask! Here aresome of our favorites.
Jake’s
664 North Palm Canyon Dr.; 760-327-4400
How can you go wrong at Jake’s? This “hip yet casual American bistro” in the city’s trendy Uptown Design District is named for the owners’ West Highland Terrier. Your own pup will like the easy atmosphere in Jake’s pleasant courtyard and you’ll love the great food. Full bar.
Koffi
Two locations:
1700 South Camino Real at East Palm Canyon Dr.; 760-322-7776
515 North Palm Canyon Dr.; 760-416-2244
For early morning pastries or frozen coffee drinks at the end of a hot afternoon, stop by one of Koffi’s two ‘desert modern” cafes. When we sat down for refreshments at Koffi’s South Palm Springs location after a recent hike, we got a taste of Koffi’s commitment to its canine guests — barista Anna couldn’t help interrupting her break to offer Magnolia the very cup of water she’d intended for herself.
Native Foods Café
Two locations:
1775 E. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760-416-0070
73-890 El Paseo Dr.; 760-836-9396
Native Foods Chef Tanya Petrovna insists, “I’m not a strict vegeterian — I’m a fun vegetarian!” Her creative all-vegan menu shows it. Asta can join you on the patio at the café’s Palm Springs location in open-air Smoke Tree Village, or lope over to the Palm Desert location after window-shopping on El Paseo, aka “the Rodeo Drive of the Desert.”
Spencer’s at the Mountain
701 West Baristo Rd.; 706-327-3446
Nestled at the foot of Mount San Jacinto on the beautifully terraced grounds of the Tennis Club Resort, Spencer’s is a Palm Springs tradition in fine dining. Dogs are welcome on the patio, which has been called Palm Springs’ best.
Deborah C.Z. Hirsch is an altruistic hedonist grateful to be living in Palm Springs with her musician husband Dave, their hound dog mutt Magnolia, and a dozen wild hummingbirds. When she must, she tears herself away from the pool to work part-time as an environmental communications consultant.
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