A Bay Area Dog Trainer Treks to Borneo
Dateline: Borneo, 2009
East Kalimantan, Indonesia
When I am not training dogs, I am in search of some sort of wild animal adventure. I’ve been all over China, Southeast Asia, and parts of Africa to find, observe, and photograph animals in their wild habitat, including chimpanzees, mountain gorillas, gibbons, proboscis monkeys, sun bears, elephants, hippos, lions, and giraffes (just to name a few).
My most recent trip finds me deep within the jungles of Borneo in search of the endangered wild orangutan. I’m in a remote area that doesn’t see many tourists, let alone a woman traveling alone. I was held up for hours at the Jakarta Airport, being interrogated in different rooms by different men with guns. “Where is your friend?” they all asked, and “Why are you traveling alone?”
Not counting that delay, it has taken me 5 days to get here – three planes, two overnight public boats, and countless hours driving on Borneo “roads.” Most people with half a brain wouldn’t subject themselves to this kind of travel. But I am on a mission and this is where the wild orangutan live.
I am traveling with a guide, a camera, two sets of clothes, a backpack full of water, and a picture of my dog, Turtle. It is stifling hot and the jungle air is so heavy it is challenging to breathe. My clothes are soaked with sweat and have been since I got here (nothing ever dries in this climate). I’m on my third day of trekking and haven’t seen any apes yet, but I’ve finally mastered the skill of removing leaches off of my body without breaking stride!
My guide is back in camp, sick, and a local villager who does not speak English is his replacement. He thinks it is hilarious when I swat with disgust at the millions of mosquitos that swarm in for a meal every time I stop or slow down for any reason. You’ve got to keep moving, which is not easy when your search for orangutan involves quietly listening to the forest.
I miss my dog when I travel, and this time I have brought along a picture of Turtle sporting a pair of “doggles.” Whenever people inevitably ask me if I have children, I whip out the picture of my dog wearing sunglasses. I enjoy the hoots of laughter and cries of disbelief that always ensue. Once, a woman screamed and disappeared with my picture for hours, returning it only when she had finished showing it to the entire village! I still wonder if she thought that hairy creature was indeed my child.
Generally, dogs are not highly regarded in this part of the world. They are viewed by most as dangerous pests that spread disease. Most of the dogs here are strays barely survive under very poor conditions. Typically they live to a ripe old age of 1 to 2 years; anything beyond that is highly unusual. This is common in a lot of developing countries I’ve been to, so I wasn’t surprised by the astonished reactions I received to Turtle’s photo. A dog as a pet is not at all common, let alone one wearing shades!
I am very surprised while staying with the Dayak Tribes along the Mahakam River, therefore, to find that they keep dogs as family pets. The dogs live inside the longhouses with all of the families, even sleeping inside, which is almost unheard of in this part of the world. The dogs are (relatively) clean, healthy, and friendly – another big surprise.
I sit in a circle with the families, on the floor eating dinner, with their dogs by my side. It is so refreshing to spend quality time with dogs and not be considered strange or even crazy for it. The people eat barking deer, steamed jungle fern, and rice, and so do the dogs. After dinner the elders stay busy weaving baskets and making poison darts by candle light. When the chief opens a bottle of Tuak, a fermented rice wine, I am a bit dismayed. It’s considered quite rude to refue the drink when offered. I hesitate only slightly as I glance at the (many) dried human skulls bundled together hanging from the rafters. Headhunting has long been outlawed in Borneo, but I figure it might be wise not to offend anyone this evening.
So I take the bottle and drink, and then I drink some more. It seems these people drink all night! Not only that, everyone is expected to tell a story or sing a song. When my turn comes, I pass around the picture of my dog. My guide translates for me as I explain that this is my dog, left at home in America. Roars of laughter ensue. I explain that her name is Turtle… again the howling.
When I describe to them what I do for a living back home – “I train dogs,” I say – inebriated adults are now holding their sides in uncontrollable hysterics.
I go to sleep that night with the dogs curled up on the floor with me. When I awake, I am treated to a breakfast fit for a king. The tribes have gathered from miles around to hear my story and look at Turtle’s picture. Apparently, I have gained rock-star status in Borneo. As I reluctantly take my leave, I slip the picture of Turtle into the chief’s hand. For you, I gesture. Keep it safe until I return.
I do eventually find orangutan in the wild. I am lucky enough to spot four of them. If you’re wondering whether or not I would do it all over again, my answer is an unequivocal yes. I gained so much more from this trip than I ever bargained for. I do not know if I will ever make it back to see my Dayak friends again, but I’m fairly certain that Turtle is a legend there by now.
Sandi Thompson, CPDT is the owner of the award-winning dog training school, BRAVO!PUP Puppy & Dog Training. She was also the recipient of the 2006 APDT National Trainer of the Year award. For more information, visit www.bravopup.com.
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