Since I started teaching people how to train their dogs in 1989, the most common question I have been asked is how to get a dog to come when called.
My clients know that teaching their dogs to come when called could save the dogs’ lives, as well as preventing embarrassment at the park and beach.
I basically meet two types of owners, those who expect the dog to come just because he “should” and those who have put effort into training but do not get the response they want from the dog all the time. Neither group seems to understand that most dogs have to be systematically trained to respond to the recall command, or that the training must be done in many different environments for as long as it takes to get the desired response from the dog. Dog training is always a work in progress.
How much training will be required for your dog depends on these factors:
- How much time he has already spent running the wrong way while he is hearing the “come here” command.
- His breed. You need to understand your dog’s genetic makeup in order to train him.
- His age. Puppies, like kids in kindergarten, are more eager to please you than teenagers in high school.
- How much exercise the dog gets. Dogs that don’t regularly fulfill their urge to run are much less likely to want to come back.
- Your attitude. Dogs that have boring owners who don’t understand how best to reward them won’t have a good reason to come back.
My training school, ACE Dog Sports, specializes in the dog sport called agility training. Dogs cannot pursue the off-leash portion of the program until they have mastered the recall command to a very high level of comprehension. The following is the information that I share with all my students at the beginning of their dog’s agility careers
Three Ways to Get Your Dog to Come Back to You
The Formal Recall
This reliable response is systematically trained and the dog is tested to be sure he has a very high level of comprehension at each step of the process. The dog is taught to respond to a specific, unchanging command that does not have to be repeated or stated in a threatening tone.
A reliable, “formal” recall requires a step-by-step training program and a dedicated person to teach the dog. (It is important that the dog never hear the formal recall command when he is off-leash until the training program calls for it.) The formal recall has a fair consequence attached to it.
The “I-Hope-You-Come” Routine
This is used when the dog is off leash and has not finished the formal recall training program. We all know the routine: a jolly, encouraging, sing-song style of talking to get the dog’s attention. You might say “I’m leeeeaaaving! “COOKIES!” “Pup-pup-pup”. This often works great with young puppies and insecure dogs. It can be effective and should always be rewarded, as should the formal recall. It is not a trained command and has no consequence, it simply either works or it doesn’t. In other words, it is up to the dog to come or not.
You should give up trying to get your dog to come to you with this method after about 15 seconds. You do not want to practice having him ignore you. If you are not in control of your dog you both will know it; no need continuing to advertise the fact to the dog. Try again in a few minutes.
After a few attempts you will have to go get the dog or wait for him to come on his own. If neither of these is an acceptable option, simply do not let the dog off the leash. Trying too hard at this stage will undermine your formal recall training by demonstrating to the dog that you do not have control and that he has a choice. Insisting in a harsh tone will work sometimes, but you risk teaching the dog to respond to you only if you are getting angry and he is intimidated.
The Name Game
The name game is a great stepping-stone to the formal recall. It can be started on a puppy as young as seven weeks. It is a game; the dog does not have to play if he doesn’t want to. You should create an 80/20 success/failure rate, so be creative about how and when you play. If the dog is failing more than 20% of the time, you are making the task too difficult; if he is not failing at all, the task is too easy. A hungry dog is a good place to start; a dog that wants anything from you is a bonus.
You will need several tiny soft treats and a clicker or a word like YES to mark your dog’s initial response. To start, say the dog’s name in a clear, loud voice (use the same inflection every time you play). If he looks at you, immediately click or use your word to mark the response. Reward with a cookie, making the dog move toward you to get it. Feed close to your leg; do not offer the cookie at arm’s length. Scratch the dog’s neck (only if he likes it). This will get him used to you taking hold of his collar in the future.
If the dog ignores you, walk over to the dog and show him the cookie. Say “look what you missed” and put the treat away. Do not play again for 30 seconds or more.
The first five reps of saying the dog’s name and clicking the clicker are done when the dog is looking at you, then you can play when the dog is not looking at you. After a successful session, try making the next session more challenging by adding distance and distractions. Keep working at a 20/80 success/failure rate; do not make it too easy or too difficult.
I encourage you to perfect your dog’s recall. You both will reap the benefits as he becomes capable of spending more safe, off-leash time with you.
Sandra Rogers owns and operates ACE Dog Sports in San Francisco and Pacifica. The school specializes in agility training at every level. Students range from the casual enthusiasts to the national level competitor. Sandra is a three-time national champion. To learn more or to contact her, visit www.acedogsports.com.
