The major purpose of training is for the owner to establish reliable off-leash, verbal control over the dog at all times, including when the dog is at a distance or distracted – and without the continued need of any training aids, like food lures or rewards
In order to communicate with our dogs, we could try to master their many languages and relay our wishes via body language or olfactory means. Although certainly possible, this would be highly impractical. Consequently, we teach dogs the meaning of human words. Indeed, basic manners involve teaching dogs ESL – English as a Second Language – human words for doggy behaviors and actions, so that the dog can understand what we want him to do. Thus, we can teach a dog to perform a behavior reliably on cue, e.g., to sit on request, and we can teach a dog to cease performing a behavior on cue, e.g., to shush on request.
Teaching cued behaviors is simple. For example, 1) Say, “sit”; 2) Lure the dog to sit; and 3) When the dog sits; 4) Praise and reward. Kibble is one of the most convenient and effective lures and rewards for off-leash training. However, it is important to phase out the use of food lures and rewards early in training and then integrate numerous short training interludes (as short as “sit,” or “come here”) within the dog’s enjoyable off-leash activities, such as exploring and playing with other dogs. Every time the dog is asked to sit, resuming play may be used as a high-level reward to increase off-leash reliability.
As a general rule, unfortunately, this is not happening. People are not training off-leash from the outset and so instead have become permanently reliant on leashes, collars (metal and shock), halters, and harnesses. A lack of off-leash reliability is a huge quality of life issue for the dog, because it means a restricted lifestyle with fewer walks and romps.
Food lures become ineffective bribes when people don’t phase them out. The only proper use of a lure is temporarily and specifically to teach the meaning of hand signals. Dogs learn hand-signals incredibly quickly because signals and movement are a part of their language – body language. So, after just half a dozen or so trials, keep the food in your pocket and communicate via hand-signals. In essence, then, the lure hand-movement has become a hand-signal.
It will take longer for the dog to learn the meaning of verbal commands though, and precise timing is essential. Stand perfectly still while giving the verbal command. If you move or flinch, the dog will pay selective attention to your movement (salient) and simply won’t hear the word (irrelevant). Give the hand-signal precisely half a second following the verbal command.
With luring, the notion is that the dog would gladly comply if only he knew what you wanted him to do. The use of the lure teaches him what to do, but will work only for a couple of weeks, until the novelty value wears off and the dog develops competing interests.
If you continue to use the same item, e.g. food, as a lure and as a reward, it will soon become a bribe. The dog may or may not respond at his convenience if you have food in your hand or pocket, but will probably ignore you if you don’t. (The same may apply to clicker training, if the clicker and the food pouch are evident beforehand.) Progressively increasing the smelly nature of the food will only have a temporary effect before the dog blows off that, too.
The only way to maintain the effectiveness of food rewards is to feed the dog only by hand; in other words, the dog only eats while training. Failing this, you will find that food is not a great reward for adolescent dogs.
Summing up, food is fantastic as a temporary training reward, but to motivate a dog to want to do what you want him to do, it is vital to quickly replace food rewards with Life Rewards. Ask your dog to sit, for example, before every enjoyable event, such as putting on his leash for a walk, letting him off-leash in a park, throwing his tennis ball, or letting him greet other dogs. Also, make certain to integrate sits and recalls into his favorite activities, such as walks and play. This is how to make your dog a happy and reliable companion, which he greatly desires to be.
Ian Dunbar is a veterinarian, canine behaviorist, and puppy-training pioneer. He is the founder of SIRIUS® Puppy Training and Scientific Director for www.dogstardaily.com.
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